Grab a Hunk of Lightning

Migrant Mother, photograph by Dorothea Lange, Nipomo, California, 1936
Dorothea Lange

It’s not often that a film inspires me to write a blog entry, but here we are. I have been inspired, and I’m writing about it. The film is Grab a Hunk of Lightning, a story about Dorothea Lange.

Lange was among the greatest twentieth-century American photographers; she made the iconic photograph above. Due to bad timing, it very nearly didn’t happen: it was raining, and the camp of pea-pickers hadn’t worked that day. After a long and tiring day of work, Dorothea decided to drive right past the entrance to the camp, and almost immediately she second-guessed herself. She turned around and drove in.

Somewhat later, she sent that photograph to her boss, and suddenly it was everywhere.

She wasn’t paid for it and she was rarely credited.

Eighty years later, Dorothea’s granddaughter Dyanna Taylor has filmed an evocative story about Dorothea, her loves, and her life with a camera in her hand. There are people who will enjoy this film because they are themselves artists and creators; there is plenty here for them. But there are myriad other reasons to watch the film: it will encourage you to look around yourself with greater awareness; you will learn something about American history, especially the Depression era; and not least, it is a beautiful and sensitive portrait of a remarkable woman of immense skill and vision.

Click here to watch the trailer and learn more about the film.

White Angel Breadline, San Francisco, California, 1933.
Man in Archway, Pakistan, 1958.

A joint effort by three winemaking entities, some of the proceeds from the sale of bottles of Ciel Rouge (Red Sky) will go to support the region’s firefighters. The photograph of the fire that’s seen on the label was taken by the family who own Château les Palais; it’s their view from the family home shortly before they evacuated.
The flames and the phoenix

On August 5 this past summer, a fire of terrible ferocity began in the Corbières region of Aude, the département where I live in the South of France. The fire started in Ribaute, and grew quickly to envelope multiple villages. At its worst, the fire burned nearly 2,500 acres an hour; it was finally brought under control three days later, after destroying over 32,000 acres. It was the most catastrophic wildfire in France in 75 years.

A wildfire instills a primal fear that is unlike other fears. I clearly remember how I felt when I glanced out my window and saw the flames. We had already had several destructive fires, so I knew right where to look online to learn the location of this one. The only fire I could find was 30 kilometers away (18.5 miles)—surely that was too far away because I could see the flames themselves rising high in the sky. And yet… this was indeed the fire that I could see, from the safety of my home.

Last week my friend Sue and I decided to take a drive to the village of Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse, one of the hardest-hit by the fire, to say hello to a few winemakers we know, and to show our support.

“L’Ogre des Corbières” is the monster of the Corbières; i.e., the horrible fire of 2025. The drawing is by a family friend, and the distinctive church tower is a symbol of the village.

Our first stop was Château de Saint Eutrope in the center of Saint-Laurent. This was a new winery to both of us, a recommendation from another friend. We received a warm welcome from Emilie, one member of the Verdale family that has worked these vines for five generations.

The recent bottling of L’Ogre des Corbières is their last for a while; all but eight hectares were destroyed by the fire, and those eight sustained smoke damage. As Emilie said, it’s heartbreaking, and they really don’t know if they’ll still be making wine in the future.

We enjoyed speaking with Emilie, and we bought a few cases of wine before saying goodbye. I hope I’ll get to see her again, and drink more of their fine wines.

A portion of the sales of Ciel Rouge (Red Sky) will go to our regional firefighters. The photograph was made from the family home at Château les Palais, just before everyone evacuated.
At Château les Palais, the family home is seen behind a huge fountain and some of the very few trees that were saved from the fire.
The cave at Les Palais is a 9th-century convent chapel.

Our second stop was at Château les Palais, which has also been in the same family for several generations. The property is extensive, and it includes a chapel from a 9th-century convent that used to be here. It’s quite a building, and the wines are delicious, too.

They also participated in a flame-inspired bottling, and in this case, a portion of the proceeds will benefit the region’s firefighters, as well as property owners who experienced especially hard losses.

Château les Palais lost all of their vines, as well as a great many olive trees and old parasol pines.

Wine bottles marching up the 1,200-year-old steps of a chapel.
Part of the view of Saint-Laurent-de-la-Cabrerisse from the terrace where we enjoyed a tasty lunch on a lovely autumn day.

We returned to the center of Saint-Laurent for a delicious lunch on a terrace overlooking the Nielle River. The restaurant, La Vielle Dame, was nearly full, and everyone was smiling, relaxed and happy to be exactly where they were on this sunny day.

After lunch, we took a short stroll around the picturesque village, and found that this is a place that takes great pride in its history. Historic markers abound, with photos and maps recounting the very long story of this village.

The remarkable doorway of a late-13th century house.
A cozy setting in an ancient courtyard.

We finished our day with a final stop at one of our favorite wineries, where we enjoyed a nice conversation with the vigneron.

It had been a nearly perfect autumn day, with a vivid blue sky and a tiny bit of chill to the occasional breeze. People were smiling as they made their way through their day.

But there was desolation, too, as we saw huge swaths of bare earth and blackened twigs where there once had been vines and trees.

Emilie Verdale recounted how her grandmother had remained in her home, even as the flames crackled just outside her window, and her brother Maxime said, “We are the fifth generation to work on the estate. We don’t want to be the last.”

Anne de Volontat, of Château les Palais, recounted that every one of their vines was lost to the flames, but when she spoke, her eyes held a steely defiance that spoke of a determination to bring their land right back to glorious life.

Phoenix rising, indeed.



Altitude adjustment

Like much of the world, the South of France has been experiencing an unusually hot summer. A few weeks ago when we hit a particularly hot stretch, I started looking around for a place where I could break the cycle for a few days. At heart, I’m a mountain girl (montagnarde in French), and when some friends recommended Andorra, I jumped. It offers stunning mountains, high elevations, dry air and my favorite: a high barometric reading. So I threw a bag in the car and drove to the hills for an Andorra altitude adjustment.

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Two festive stories

Holiday fun

I’m traveling as I write this, and I’ve seen some wonderful ways to celebrate this festive time of year. I’ve encountered smiling, friendly faces, dazzling decorations bursting with joy and a good dose of magic, and all manner of enticing things to browse through and perhaps even to buy.

Today’s first stop is Barcelona, where I spent one gorgeous day walking and exploring that beautiful city.

Following that is our second stop, a fun place to visit in Las Vegas, Nevada.

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Going back to Ireland

Ireland, 2024 edition

In August I returned to Ireland, in part to escape the heat of southern France, and in greater part because I’ve completely fallen for the Emerald Isle. This year I traveled with my California friend Amy, with a few days at the end of the trip on my own.

Over the years, I’ve found that my preferred way to travel is to pick a place and settle in there for a while, getting to know the place, its people and its region. I don’t really like to spend my vacation time with lots of planes, trains and automobiles. This trip, however, involved some moving around, and we did see some great places.

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My dad’s garage

A man and his garage

During their married life, my parents lived in two houses, and in each of them the garage was my father’s man cave. It was where he went to tinker, which he was remarkably good at. He solved many a household problem, even when the rest of us weren’t aware there was a problem. He’d go out to the garage and sketch one or two possible solutions, and then spend a great deal of time crafting this or that object, using whatever he could find to make the perfect gizmo.

While Dad was a good problem-solver and creative thinker, he was not the most organized guy on the block. Added to that, he was a child of the Depression, and like a great many Americans of that era, Dad simply could not bring himself to discard anything that might one day in the future have a remote possibility of being the tiniest bit useful. Bits of wire, a mind-boggling array of wrenches and hex keys, a great many items that had been torn, broken or moth-eaten, long-empty bottles of various garage-oriented fluids: he had in mind that someday, any one of these items could be the exact thing he would need to make a repair or to create something wholly new. He also had a pretty good idea of where everything was and could find what he needed almost immediately, even if he hadn’t laid eyes on it in years. Nowadays we call it hoarding, but I know some ranchers who call it the original form of recycling.

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June in the garrigue

What’s a garrigue?

I live in the garrigue of southern France. If you stand on a Mediterranean beach near the city of Narbonne and move north, you’ll pass through flat and fertile river land before arriving in my regional garrigue. It’s a rough, rocky, hilly terrain that marks the transition from flat farmland to the low mountains of the Haute Languedoc region.

The garrigue is terribly difficult to farm, but people have been trying for a few thousand years. This land is hilly, dry and rocky. It used to be covered by forests, but those were chopped down, first by the Greeks (who arrived in the 6th century B.C.) and then by the Romans, who established Narbonne in 118 B.C. They all used a lot of wood, and entire forests were wiped out during this period.

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